Exe-rated: The Blog of Exmouth Harriers: Comer's Corner: Exmouth Harrier on Tour, instalment 2

Instalment 2:
La Paz to Buenos Aires

Having survived the Worlds Most Dangerous Road on my last update, my second trip kicked off with another drama. Our first days drive from La Paz was supposed to end at a homestay in the local community of Livichenco, however all did not go to plan. The evening before we were due to leave the local guide contacted us as there was a miners strike in Challapata, which we needed to pass through to get to Livichenco. The strike involved burning tyre pyres across the road, the general throwing of rocks and military intervention. Based on this information we had to make alternative plans and so drove straight through to Potosi.

Potosi is the home of the most revered silver mines in Bolivia, and was the source of much of the Inca and Spanish wealth in the area. The ‘red mountain’ is actually a volcano and is mined for many different minerals. Black silver is now the most common silver strain found. Visiting the mines was an experience! The health and safety is second to none, with a shouted warning to watch the 200m deep hole on the left! Not quite the UK but is fascinating to see. The miners bring gifts of 97% alcohol, coca leaves and cigarettes to the devil in the hope that if they appease him then they will be safe for their shift. I also visited the mint museum to learn how the different Bolivian currencies have been made over the years. The city is not a typical mining town. There are some stunning buildings, and beautiful streets – all overlooked by the volcano. Well worth a vist!

After the extra day in Potosi we set off for Uyuni. The drive was beautiful, with the landscapes including desolate canyons, soaring mountains and eventually a vast white plain stretching beyond Uynui, surrounded by mountains. The evening was a relaxing one with a visit to the Extreme Fun Pub to sample some cocktails. Unfortunately for me my passengers also ran a sweepstake as the latest ‘Katie’s Challenge’ and paid for me to try the ‘Extreme Drinking Challenge’ which included 10 South America shots (one being six shots in one!!) being consumed as quickly as possible. The record: 35 seconds held by another Dragoman driver. As most of you will know, my tolerance for alcohol isn’t great at the best of times! My time: 66 seconds so a very credible attempt followed by instant drunkness and quick dash to the bathroom!!

Day 6 was our visit to the Uyuni salt flats on local jeeps. Feeling a little bit fragile (I insisted on having the windows down in the jeep!), we visited a salt processing business before being let loose with the cameras to play with the famous optical illusion salt flat photos. Hours of fun! We then visited fish island, which is made of coral. The salt flats used to be a sea, and as the water evaporated so the levels dropped and left the coral island exposed above the salt flats, now covered in cacti. Returning from the island we found a hole in the salt which turned out to be about 18 inches thick, and some natural springs coming up through the salt. The day finished with a visit to the train graveyard where we had another ‘Katie’s Challenge’ – this time to get from one end of the train to the other, without ever touching the ground. Mission successful!

Day 7 took us on the first days drive across the Bolivian Altiplano with local guide Braulio navigating to make sure we didn’t get lost. There are no maps or signs up there!! On the way through we visited the Valle de la Roche (Valley of the Rocks), which is a fascinating collection of rocks statues, sculpted by the winds. It was another day of vast landscapes, incredible lights, where llamas, alpacas, vicunas live in abundance, and our first rhea (small ostrich) was seen. We stayed overnight in a local refugia in a village called Ville Mar where we received a warm welcome with traditional Bolivian music.

The following day I was up early to dash up a mountain to watch the sunrise over the village, before setting off once again across the altiplano. The first famous stop was at the Laguna Colorado, a lake which is red in colour due to the mineral content and where flamingos can be seen in abundance. More incredible landscapes lead up to hot bubbling geysers, and a hot spring for lunch where we had chance to have a very quick 5 minute skinny dip (it was meant to be a paddle but it was just too tempting!). Finally passing the Laguna Verde (Green Lake) we crossed the border from Bolivia to Chile into San Pedro de Atacama and our hostel. San Pedro is an amazing place with a real Bohemian feel to it. Whilst there we crossed paths with another Dragoman truck - cue a crew night out for a catch up! Back at the hostel we caught up over a few more drinks and made friends with four Chileans who were just brilliant and patiently helped teach me some more Spanish (one was called Manuel!).

We spent day 9 enjoying San Pedro de Atacama, and took the passengers out to the desert and into the Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon) to see the sand dunes and rock formations, finishing with a desert sunset. One slight glitch when our passengers did a ‘truck swap’ from Yana to Elle and we went to the next stop, only to discover that a passenger had managed to get left behind in the toilet. A quick dash back and Priscilla (not joking) Queen of the Desert was recovered in time for us to get to a stunning sunset!

Day 10 involved a long drive day, crossed the border from Chile to Argentina and passing through the Argentine Salt Flats. Temperatures started at 8 degrees over the pass, followed by a steep descent through beautiful scenery to arrive at Salta and temperatures in the mid 30’s!!

The following day wasn’t a great day for me. I spent the morning in the very glamorous toilets at the truck park feeling terrible in 37 degree heat!! Steve eventually sent me back to the hotel at lunchtime, so spent the afternoon doing paperwork under the fan in the hotel reception which was the coolest place I could find to flake out!! By evening I was feeling well enough to join the group for a walk through the beautiful, vibrant city to sample the famous Argentine steak which was simply exquisite. Unfortunately I didn’t feel well enough to finish it, at which point the waiter insisted that I drink a Chilean speciality, Fernet, to settle my stomach. Made with herbs collected from a Venezuelan river, it tasted as bad as it sounds. I can’t say it settles my stomach, but it would work well as a cough medicine!

Back on the road the next day, this time we headed through a stunning valley, visiting a natural volcano-formed amphitheatre en route. Think of the photos at the entrance to Jordan and you’ll get the idea! The size and scale was incredible, and it made a fabulous backdrop for our lunch stop. Afterwards we continued on to the wine region of Cafayate and a campsite with some incredibly friendly dogs who kept escorting our passengers into town and back.

The following day I was back to feeling ill all day. Got drugs and slept in a patch of shade at our campsite as it was simply too hot anywhere else in temperatures reaching 35 degrees. In the afternoon the Andean ‘El nino’ wind picked up – strong hot winds rushing down from the Andes as the hotter air near the ground rises forcing the air down off the mountains, on this occasion creating a sandstorm. I woke up with sand coating everything including my eyelashes!! Sadly I wasn’t feeling up to sampling the wines form the region – this is an experience I have to save until the next time I do this trip.

Day 14 I was feeling better and we were back on the road, heading towards San Peteros estancia near Cordoba. A long drive day, again through stunning scenery and the Quilmes region. The Quilmes tribe was one of the last to be ousted by the Incas and the Spanish due to the nature and situation of the valley they lived in. Passing through Taffe de Valle and down the valley it is easy to see why – the area is incredibly inaccessible! Leaving the mountains we hit the agricultural lands of Argentina. With the impressive Andes to our right we had a long trip South towards Cordoba. Arriving at the Estancia just before dark, we had a warm reception from our host, Kevin, including an invite for wine tasting and cheese.

The estancia visit basically involved two days of horse riding. I was riding a lovely little mare called Reinita, who apparently is a very good polo pony although I wasn’t lucky enough to try out her skills. Led by Gauchos, we were taught how to lasso. I have discovered that I can catch firewood, as I caught the practice tree twice but the bullocks are safe from my rope! In the evening Steve and I ran an empanada class, teaching out passengers how to make a local speciality found throughout Argentina, accompanied by yet more wine.

The second day involved more horse riding, this time with a lunch stop at a beautiful waterfall and natural pool for swimming. Very cold but refreshing! The afternoon saw the group split with the more experienced riders having the chance to let off steam on the way back to the ranch house which was great fun! In the evening the ranch owners provided the most incredible barbeque – my expectations have risen and barbeques will never be the same again! Different cuts of steak, empanadas, salads, fresh home made breads, and more of the local wine. It was delicious!

Back on the road, we stopped in Cordoba for a few hours to allow our passengers to explore the city and have some lunch. Sadly, due to a lack of parking, Steve and I had to ‘borrow’ a bus stop and took it in turns to run and grab some lunch whilst ‘loitering innocently’, ready to make a quick get-away from a policeman if necessary. Fortunately we avoided all fines and made good our escape, heading south east towards Buenos Aires and an overnight campsite with some very friendly mosquitos!

An early start saw us arrive in Buenos Aires by lunch time, allowing passengers time to explore the city. Here I had my first experience of a ‘cambio man’ – not usually recommended but due to the current economic situation in Argentina cambio men give a much better exchange rate than the banks and you can get 1/3 more pesos for your dollar. I spent the last day of the trip in the truck park, washing all of the camping equipment and food storage. With the local Boca soccer team playing at home, celebrations were widespread, spirits were high, and the atmosphere in the city was electric. Out for our final group meal and some sad farewells to some of the members form the trip. Others are continuing on with us to do the leg from Buenos Aires to Rio de Janeiro. Watch this space for more updates to come!

Warning: envy inducing photos follow!!